Well, I’ve just wrapped up my travel diary on Bali. Wasn’t it fun? Even I’m enjoying going back and reading about all the adventures I had there with my little sister, Kate. It was a trip I’ll never forget, and I’m so glad we did it together.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any more exotic vacations planned for the foreseeable future, so I’m afraid we’re going to have to go back to basics here on the blog: food and cooking. But what a great time of year it is for those two things! Springtime is right around the corner, which means berries, stone fruit and other warm-weather treats. And longer days mean more time to spend in the kitchen and sitting around the table… the best kinds of therapy.

So I’m going to jump the gun here a little bit and post a recipe for a peach crostata. Peaches are already in the grocery stores, which is a little scary given that there’s still snow on the ground in much of the country. Indeed, they come from Chile, which means they have quite the journey from farm to fork…. not exactly seasonal or local. But I bought a few this week because I simply couldn’t resist an early taste of the warmer season. They were ridiculously expensive (I think they flew first class from Santiago) and a little mealy from the journey, but they were peachy nonetheless.

What to do with peaches that are too mealy to eat fresh and too expensive to throw away? Bake them into a crostata, a free-from pie baked flat on a cookie sheet. Crostata is hardly a recipe, really, and more of a strategy: you just roll out a round of pie dough (use your favorite recipe that yields enough dough for a nine-inch, single-crust pie), arrange the peaches in the middle, and fold the edges up and around the fruit. I used three medium peaches; first I removed the skins (dunk them in boiling water for 45 seconds… it will peel right off), then I sliced them and tossed them in a mixture of 1 teaspoon corn starch and about 1/3 cup sugar. I squeezed half of a lemon over the peach & sugar mixture, for a little zing, and then arranged the slices in concentric circles over a 12-inch round of pie dough placed right onto a cookie sheet, dotting the peaches with little bits of butter and folding the edges up in the last step to keep the peachy juices in while it baked. If you want, you can brush the crust with a little egg wash (one egg lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water) and sprinkle the egg wash with turbinado sugar.

That’s all. Like I said, it’s more of a strategy than a recipe, which is why I’ve written it in paragraph form. And it works with all kinds of fruit, fresh or frozen. You can use more or less sugar, depending upon how naturally sweet the fruit is, and more or less corn starch depending upon how juicy the fruit is.

Serve a crostata with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, while it’s still just a tad warm.

Now… aren’t you glad springtime’s almost here?

Scott and Jessie are real-life people and they’re good friends of mine; I’ve known Jessie since elementary school and Scott is her husband.  I’ve always thought Jessie was one of the smartest, most together girls I could ever meet and I wondered whether she would find a guy funny, sweet and charming enough to marry.  And you know what?  Scott is all that and more.  He helps with the dishes and provides technical support and handyman services for her immediate and extended family.  He once rescued a giant turtle from the pond in their backyard.  He affectionately calls Jessie, “Buddy.”  I’d tell you how they met (’cause you’re probably wondering where you can find a guy like Scott to marry yourself), but it has something to do with Jessie hitting on him while he was her TA in college and I don’t think I’m supposed to talk about it.

Anyway, I spent a weekend with Scott and Jessie last month at Bass Lake, where Jessie’s family has a house.  I’ve gone to Bass Lake with her family countless times over the years.  She used to bring a whole group of us girls up every summer, in fact, and we’d get into all kinds of trouble with the local boys.  We’d sunbathe by day and then sneak out of the house at night to drink beer at the home of any local kid whose parents were out of town.  If only Jessie’s poor mother knew.

Now we girls are grownups, mostly married or committed in some way, and so are the local boys.  So our weekends in Bass Lake are pretty civilized.  Last month while I was there, our days went pretty much like this: We’d lounge on the dock from morning till dusk, taking the boat out for a spin whenever the mood struck.  Sometime between 4 and 5 pm, we’d head up to the house to pack a little happy hour picnic–cheese, crackers, crudite, dip, shrimp cocktail, and a bottle of wine–and head back to the dock for sunset.    A few hours later, we’d fire up the barbeque and have dinner on the deck.  After dinner, a little more reading or perhaps a movie.  Then bed.  In the morning?  Repeat.

Scott and Jess made this salad one night and I fell in love with it.  It’s a surprising combination of flavors: The melon is cool and sweet but the serrano chili gives the dressing a hot kick.  Feta adds a little savory saltiness and the thyme lends a touch of earthiness.  Spinach is the perfect backdrop for it all.  I made it myself for dinner last night and I could almost hear the gentle waves of the lake, lapping under the dock and calling me back.

10 sprigs thyme
1 serrano chili
1 small shallot
juice and zest of 1/2 lime
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup canola oil
1/2 cup champagne or white wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 oz fresh baby spinach, rinsed and dried
3 lbs seedless watermelon
4 oz crumbled feta

Remove the thyme leaves from the sprigs by gripping each sprig with your thumb and forefinger near one end and, with your other hand, pulling the sprig away from you so that your thumb and finger run along the stem opposite to the direction that the leaves grow.  Set aside half of the leaves to use as garnish.  Place the remaining leaves in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade along with the serrano chili (remove some or all of the seeds for less heat), shallot, lime juice and zest, olive oil, canola oil, vinegar, and salt.  Pulse a few times until the chili and shallot are chopped, then process until the dressing is smooth and emulsified.

In a large bowl, toss the spinach with the dressing until it is fully coated, reserving 1/4 cup of the dressing for the last step.  Arrange the dressed spinach in equal quantities among four plates.  Slice the watermelon as thinly as possible and arrange over the spinach.  Sprinkle the crumbled feta over the watermelon and garnish with the remaining thyme leaves.  Drizzle the remaining dressing over the feta, about 1 tablespoon per plate.  Serve immediately.

Did your mom ever pack those Jell-O Pudding Cups in your lunch box when you were a kid?  And wasn’t there something irresistible about plunging a plastic spoon down into that rich, creamy pudding and taking a big, sugary bite?  Well, here’s a more grown-up version of the classic pudding cup, less sweet and far more sophisticated: Layers of pound cake, fresh fruit, and vanilla custard served inside an elegant glass tumbler.  Finish with a long-handled ice cream sundae spoon (check your local kitchen supply store, such as Williams Sonoma or Sur La Table) and you’ve got a very R-rated dessert that kids will love, too.

Make the pound cake:

3 large eggs, room temperature
3 tablespoons milk, room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups sifted cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup granulated sugar
12 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

Preheat oven to 350F and place rack in center of oven. Butter or spray with a non stick vegetable spray, a 9 x 5 x 3 inch loaf pan. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper and butter the paper.

In a medium bowl lightly whisk the eggs, milk, and vanilla extract together with a fork.

In the bowl of your electric mixer (or with a hand mixer), combine the dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar) and mix on low speed for about 30 seconds or until blended. Add the butter and half of the egg mixture. Mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Increase the mixer speed to medium and beat for about one minute to aerate and develop the cake’s structure. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Gradually add the remaining egg mixture, in 2 additions, beating about 30 seconds after each addition to incorporate the egg and strengthen the cake’s structure.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with an offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Bake for about 55 to 65 minutes or until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. If you find the cake browning too much as it bakes, cover with a piece of lightly buttered aluminum foil after about 30 minutes.

Remove the cake from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool for about 10 minutes. Remove the cake from the pan and cool completely on a lightly buttered wire rack.

Make the vanilla custard:

4 large eggs
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons cornstarch
4 cups half-and-half
1 cup sugar
1/2 tsp of salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 tablespoons butter

In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and cornstarch, whisking until the cornstarch is completely absorbed. Whisk in 1/4 cup of the half-and-half

In a medium saucepan, combine the remaining half-and-half, sugar and salt and bring to a boil. Whisk 1/4 cup of the hot half-and-half mixture into the eggs, then pour all of the egg mixture back into the boiling half-and-half, whisking constantly. The mixture will become very thick. Remove from heat and whisk in the vanilla and butter.

Transfer to a bowl and immediately press a piece of greased plastic wrap over the top of the cream to prevent a “skin” from forming.

Prepare the fruit:

Wash and dry one pint of fresh, ripe but firm strawberries. Remove tops (reserve them for later use) and slice vertically into 1/4 inch-thick slices. Rinse and dry 1 pint of fresh blueberries.

Prepare the pudding cups:

Cut one 1/2-inch thick slice of pound cake.  Using the bottom of a glass tumbler (drinking glass) as a guide, trace a round of pound cake to fit snugly into the bottom of the cup.  Set the glass aside and cut the pound cake circle with a paring knife, then fit it into the bottom of the cup.  Top with a spoonfull of the custard, just enough to give the strawberry slices something to sink into.  Place strawberry slices into the custard, thick ends down and sliced faces pressed flat against the interior walls of the cup (they will look like upside-down triangles from the outside of the cup.) Depending upon the size of the cup, you will need 4 to 6 strawberry slices each.  Spoon more custard into the cup, being careful not to disturb the arranged strawberry slices.  Use a spoon to gently press the custard into the base and out to the edge of the glass.  Add enough custard come almost to the top of the glass, leaving about 1/4 inch at the top.  Arrange fresh blueberries over the top, and top with a reserved strawberry top.

Makes 8-12 pudding cups, depending upon the size of tumbler used.

I wish I still had that winning recipe.  It was from a recipe book compiled by the PTA moms at my elementary school and sold as a fund-raising tool, not the kind of thing you could easily find reprinted for sale on Amazon.com these days.  If any of my classmates from Sleepy Hollow Elementary (or their mothers) out there still has a copy stashed away somewhere, I will pay top dollar for it.

Meyer lemons are in season right now, and in my neighborhood they are hanging off their branches in heavy clusters.  One family down the street puts a fresh crop out in a straw basket on the sidewalk every Saturday, free for the taking.  The lemons I used in this recipe were picked just days ago, and their freshness adds a magical zing to these bars.  Meyer lemons have a thinner skin than those year-round varieties you find in the grocery store, which is why you can chop one up—skin and all—and throw it into the curd in this recipe.

Pansies are blooming now, too, and this pretty pink one is from the flower pot outside my front door.  Pansies and their cousins, violas, make lovely garnishes, as long as they haven’t been sprayed with a pesticide or other chemicals.  Grow your own to be sure.

Make the Crust

Butter, for coating the pan
3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
Zest of 1 Meyer lemon
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into chunks

Make the Filling

1 whole Meyer lemon
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
Juice from 3 Meyer lemons (you should get about 1/2 cup juice)
Powdered sugar for garnish (optional)

Preheat oven to 350F degrees. Coat the bottom and sides of an 8×8-inch baking dish with a thin film of cold butter. In a food processor, pulse flour, powdered sugar, salt and zest until combined. Add the butter and pulse until mixture resembles sandy crumbs. (If you don’t have a food processor, mix flour through zest in a medium bowl with a whisk, then cut in butter with a pastry cutter or two knives.) The dough should resemble course meal. Transfer to a baking dish and press into an even layer with your fingertips, or use the bottom of a greased jar or ramekin. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, or until lightly golden around the edges.

Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees.

To make the filling, clean the food processor bowl and return it to the base. Trim off ends and cut the whole Meyer lemon into small chunks, removing the seeds. Add to the processor and pulse until roughly chopped. Set aside.

Whisk together the sugar, flour and salt. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the eggs, then whisk in the lemon juice. Whisk the egg mixture into the sugar mixture until thoroughly combined. Stir in the chopped whole lemon. Pour the  filling over the hot crust and return to the oven.

Bake 28 to 30 minutes, or until center is set but still gooey when poked with a toothpick. Cool completely. Sift powdered sugar (if using) over the dish. Cut into 12 or 16 bars and serve.

Store covered, at room temperature, for up to 48 hours.

Flipping through Donna Hay’s Flavors (yes, again) I found my source of inspiration: Pears poached in sugar syrup with a pinch of saffron.  The saffron not only adds a lovely flavor but also an orange tint to the syrup that stains the pears ever so slightly, giving them a deep, golden glow.

I invited some friends over for dessert after we ate dinner at our favorite restaurant last week and served these pears topped with vanilla ice cream and drizzled with a spoonful of the poaching syrup.  Divine!

Vanilla-Saffron Poached Pears

4 cups water
2 cups sugar
juice of 1/2 lemon
pinch saffron
1 whole vanilla bean
4 bartlett pears, ripe but still firm

Combine the water, sugar, lemon juice, and saffron in a medium saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved.  Scrape the vanilla bean seeds into the liquid, then add the scraped bean to the liquid, too.  Bring the liquid to a simmer.  Meanwhile, peel the pears carefully leaving them whole with the stems intact.  Carefully lower the pears into the simmering liquid and simmer, turning occasionally, until the pears are soft and cooked through, about 15 minutes.

Remove the pears from the liquid and set aside.  Remove the vanilla bean.  Bring the remaining liquid to a boil and boil until reduced by about half to a thick syrup.  Serve the pears warm with the syrup, with a scoop of good-quality vanilla ice cream if desired.

I know, I know.  It’s pretty cruel of me to post a dessert recipe just as you’ve made a New Year’s resolution to eat a healthier diet.  So here’s the good news: This dessert is light and healthy.  Yes, yes, it has “butter” as part of its name but trust me, there’s  just a smidgen.

And the recipe is so simple and straightforward, it can hardly be called a recipe.

Bakes Apples with Lemony Brown Butter Syrup

Four Red Delicious apples
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup refined sugar
1/2 stick butter
juice of one-half lemon

Slice the apples  in half laterally and place them cut-side-up in a baking dish.  (The apples should fit pretty snugly, so choose your baking dish according to the number of apples you are baking.  I used an 8×8 square ceramic dish.)  Top each half with 1/2 teaspoon butter, 1 tablespoon of brown sugar, and 2 teaspoons of refined sugar.  Squeeze the lemon over the prepared apples.  Bake at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes, basting the apples often with the juices from the pan.

Meanwhile, melt a stick of unsalted butter over medium heat and simmer until it is golden brown and bubbly.  Immediately remove from the heat, add the juice of one lemon, 2 tablespoons refined sugar, and a pinch of salt.  Set aside, but keep warm.

Serve the apples warm, drizzled with brown butter syrup.  Pair with good vanilla ice cream if you want to forget about that New Year’s resolution for a moment.  Otherwise, go easy on the brown butter syrup and skip the ice cream.  The apples by themselves are absolutely decadent.

Make the genoise cake:

5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tbsp cornstarch
6 large eggs
Pinch salt
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 F and line a 10-inch springform pan with a round of parchment paper.  Do not grease the sides.  (Genoise batter needs to “cling” to the ungreased sides of the cake pan in order to rise.)

Melt the butter over low heat and set aside.  In a medium bowl, sift together the flour and cornstarch, then set aside.

Bring 2 inches of water to a simmer in a medium saucepan.  Place the eggs, salt and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer, then place the bowl over the simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water.  (If it does, use a smaller saucepan.)  Over the simmering water, whisk the mixture for 5 to 7 minutes or until the mixture is hot to the touch, about 120 F.  Remove the bowl and place on the mixer stand.  With the whisk attachment, whisk on medium for about 5 minutes or until the mixture is pale yellow and falls from the whisk in a wide, thick ribbon.

Remove the bowl from the stand mixer and sift one-third of the flour mixture over the egg mixture.  Gently fold the flour into the eggs with a large rubber spatula, folding the batter from the bottom of the bowl to the top, rather than stirring.  Repeat with the remaining flour in two more batches, working quickly and carefully just until the flour is incorporated.

Mix about 1 cup of the batter into the melted butter, then fold the melted butter mixture into the remaining batter.  Continue folding only until the butter is incorporated.  Over-beating at this point will deflate the batter and result in a flat cake.

Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and bake for about 40 minutes or until the top of the cake springs back to the touch.  Cool in the pan on a wire rack.

Make the Frangelico syrup:

1 cup sugar
½ cup water
¼ cup Frangelico (hazelnut) liqueur

Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Stir gently with a fork just until the sugar is dissolved.  Increase heat to medium-high and bring just to a boil.  Remove the syrup from the heat, stir in the Frangelico, and set aside.

Make the Bavarian filling:

2 cups whole milk
¼ teaspoon salt
½ vanilla bean
3 tablespoons cornstarch
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
2 large eggs
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
1 ½ teaspoons gelatin (½ packet)
1 tablespoon water
2 cups heavy cream, cold

Place the milk and salt in a medium saucepan.  Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and, using the tip of a sharp knife, gently scrape the seeds from the bean and add them to the milk mixture.  Heat the milk mixture over medium heat until simmering, whisking constantly so it does not scald.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and sugar, then whisk in the eggs until combined.  Ladle about 1 cup of the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly.  Pour the hot egg mixture back into the simmering milk, whisking over medium heat until the mixture is thick and pale.  This will take about 2 minutes.  Remove from heat and whisk in the butter pieces.  Whisk until thoroughly incorporated.

Sprinkle the gelatin over the water until dissolved.  Whisk the gelatin mixture into the custard, and mix until thoroughly combined.  Set the custard aside to cool to room temperature.

When the custard is cool, begin to beat the cream in the bowl of a stand mixer until it forms medium-stiff peaks.  Immediately and gently fold the whipped cream into the pastry cream with a large rubber spatula.

Assemble the cake:

1 recipe genoise cake
1 recipe Frangelico syrup
1 recipe Bavarian filling
3 pounds whole, ripe apricots

Split the genoise cake into two layers and brush both sides and all edges of each layer generously with the Frangelico syrup, using a pastry brush.  Place a cardboard round into the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan, then place the bottom cake layer on top of the cardboard.  Spread about 1/3 of the Bavarian cream over the cake layer.

Slice about one-third of the apricots into halves and remove pits.  Slice each half into halves again horizontally.  (Don’t quarter the fruit; each  apricot should yield four fairly flat slices, as pictured.)  Press the flat slices into the Bavarian cream around the perimeter of the cake, standing on-end with centers facing outward and pressed snugly against the side of the cake pan.  Slice another third of the remaining apricots into halves, then quarter each half and arrange the apricot pieces over the layer of Bavarian filling.

Cover the apricot pieces with the remaining Bavarian filling and tap the pan gently against the work surface to remove any air bubbles.  Place the top cake layer over the Bavarian layer and press down firmly to distribute the Bavarian evenly.

Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate the assembled cake for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Make the almond whipped cream topping:

1 cup whipping cream, cold
2 tablespoons almond extract
2 tablespoons sugar

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk the cream until thick.  Add the almond extract and sugar, continuing to whisk until soft peaks form.

With an offset spatula, spread the almond cream over the top of the cake in a smooth, even layer.  Slice the remaining apricots and arrange over the almond cream in concentric patterns.  Finish the design with a few fresh raspberries or other fruit in a contrasting color.

Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

This recipe is adapted from Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson’s recipe for Bavarian in their book, “Tartine,” which is chock-full of delectable recipes from their famed bakery (of the same name) in San Francisco’s Mission District.  It’s one of my favorite spots for sweets in all of the Bay Area; definitely put it on your list of places to visit if you’re in town.  (Their éclairs are particularly good.)  If you can’t visit, buy the book.  It’s one of the most comprehensive books available on baking and pastry making.

The aroma was so intoxicating on Friday morning–it’s August now and the berries are so ripe they’re nearly fermenting on the vine–that I had to take the afternoon off from work and make a pie.

I think I covered the topic of how to prepare the dough for pie crust pretty thoroughly in Friday’s post. Today, I’ll show you how to roll out the dough and assemble the finished pie.

Equipment:

• 9 inch pie plate
• rolling pin
• large counter area for rolling the dough
• nonstick silicone baking mat, if you have one
• flour for dusting

Remove one of the chilled dough discs from the refrigerator and allow to sit at room temperature for about ten minutes. Prepare your work surface by dusting it with flour. Have a good rolling pin handy, and dust it with flour, too. As you’ll see in the photos, I use a silicone baking mat (the best ones are made by Silpat, but I’m using a knockoff) which is pre-marked with circle measurments. This makes rolling and trimming the dough pretty fool-proof, and cleanup is a snap.

Roll the dough disc into a twelve inch circle. As you roll, pick the dough up and rotate it on your floured work surface to keep it from sticking. Dust the surface with additional flour as you work if necessary, but don’t over do it: too much flour will make the dough tough.

Trim the edges of the circle with a paring knife so the circle is symmetric and evenly-edged.

Here comes the trick no professional pastry chef will ever share with you: To transfer the dough circle into your pie plate, fold it into quarters, as pictured. It’s easier to pick up this way, and you’ll avoid tearing it. Place it in the pie plate, then unfold. Gently press the dough into the plate, eliminating any air gaps between the crust and the plate. Refrigerate while you prepare the filling.

Prepare the blackberry filling:

• 4 cups blackberries
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 1/2 tablespoons corn starch
• finely grated zest of one lemon
• 2 teaspoons lemon juice

Wash, dry, and pick over the blackberries. Be careful to remove all stems, leaves and withered blossoms. And bugs!

Combine the sugar and corn starch in a bowl, whisk to combine. Add the lemon zest, juice, and berries, tossing gently until the berries are coated with the sugary syrup and the dry ingredients are completely absorbed. Pour into the refrigerated pie shell.

Roll out the top crust:

Follow the same steps as with the first piece of dough, only your top crust need only be about 10 inches in diameter. Trim away any excess and save for future use. Use the “fold in quarters” trick to transfer your dough from your work surface to your pie, then unfold carefully over the filling.

Press the edges of the top and bottom crusts together, then crimp with a fork. Cut a few slits in the top of the pie to allow steam to escape as the fruit cooks. Cover the finished pie loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for an hour to chill the dough: this will help the crust retain its shape and flakiness during baking. Alternatively, you can freeze the finished pie at this point, for up to a month. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap to prevent freezer burn.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425. Remove the pie from the fridge and brush the top with egg wash (1 egg beaten lightly with 1 tablespoon water), then sprinkle with a spoonful of turbinado sugar. The egg wash gives the crust a golden, shiny finish and the turbinado sugar adds a sweet crunch.

Bake in the pre-heated 450 F oven for 30-40 minutes, until the juices are bubbling thickly through the slits. (Note: If you’re baking a frozen pie, do not defrost before baking. Just add about 10 minutes baking time.) Allow to cool at least two hours before serving.

Serve warm with vanilla bean ice cream.

Peach skin should be removed in most cases because, well, it’s weird. It’s fuzzy and tough and it gets kind of chewy when cooked. It interferes with the textures of most desserts, and it doesn’t taste very good. When you bite into a piece of fresh peach pie, there should be two textures and two textures only: The flaky, buttery texture of the crust and the fleshy, fruity texture of the filling. Stopping to chew on a piece of leathery peach skin would detract significantly from the experience.

The method for removing the skin is simple: Drop your peaches into a large pot of boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. Remove the fruit with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of ice water, then pat the fruit dry and pull the skins off. Why does this work? You’re essentially cooking the skin, plus the millimeter or so of peach flesh directly beneath the skin. This is the flesh that attaches the skin to the fruit. Once cooked, it loses its structure and the skins just peel away (as pictured here). Dunking the peaches in cold water after blanching stops the “cooking,” so don’t skip this step.

This method works for nectarines, apricots, and most other stone fruits. Don’t be lazy — all of these fruits should be skinless when used in pies and tarts.

18 ounces fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced. (divided)
1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar
juice of 1/2 lemon

Place roughly 2/3 of the strawberries in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Pour 1/3 cup of the sugar (plus more if your strawberries are less sweet) and lemon juice over the strawberries and cook over medium heat until the berries start to release their juices and the mixture begins to bubble. Turn heat to low, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has thickened and is reduced in volume by about two-thirds. Reducing the liquid in the mixture (via the release of steam) results in a more concentrated and intense strawberry flavor.

Remove the mixture from heat, and gently fold in the remaining sliced strawberries. Transfer compote to a bowl and serve warm, or allow to cool and store in an airtight container, refrigerated, for up to two weeks.

Not sure what to do with strawberry compote?

• Pour it over French vanilla ice cream.
• Spoon it onto biscuits and top with whipped cream to make strawberry shortcake.
• Toss 1/4 cup in a blender with 8 oz of plain yogurt, a banana and a drop of milk for a tasty fruit shake.
• Freeze it until winter. You’ll thank me in December. (Thaw in refrigerator overnight or at room temperature for several hours.)